For best results:

-Read this page.

-Make sure your epoxy is at the proper temperature.

-Combine the absolute proper proportions.

-Mix A + B together until you can see no haze, streaks or clouds.

-Do a seal coat.

-Sand if you can sand.

-Do not use on top of latex or oil based products.

-Do not use this particular product for deep pours or casting.

-Work in a dry, warm and dust free environment.

-Never scrape clean the sides and bottom of the mix container to get out every last drop.

-Clean project surfaces super well.

-DO A TEST TO FEEL IT OUT- especially when working with stained/painted surfaces.

PROTECT YOURSELF

Protective gloves, goggles, and an apron are recommended. Please work in a well ventilated area. Use an organic vapor cartridge if the ventilation is poor. Wash or dispose of soiled clothing.

 

GET THAT TEMPERATURE RIGHT

It is imperative that the epoxy is has acclimated to room temperature 18°C – 22°C (64.5°F -72°F). The ideal working temperature is around 22°C (72°F). Temperatures below 16°C (60°F) will hinder the chemical process- resulting in an inconstant cure (tackiness/stickiness). Temperatures above 27°C (80°F) are too hot and may cause the epoxy to set too quickly- resulting in cracking and distortion. If the epoxy is stiff in the jug, place in the sink with warm water 24°C (75°F). Ensure that the lid is securely closed (do not allow the epoxy to get wet). Allow the jug to sit for 10-15 minutes to warm up. 

 

COVERAGE CONSIDERATION

In every project, please consider the porosity of your surface (seal coat), the pour thickness, and waste (5%- from not scraping clean the sides of the container). A seal coat followed by a flood coat is a common method of application. 3.5 oz. of mixed epoxy covers one square foot.

 

PREPARE YOUR SURFACE

Sand to create more of a surface to adhere to- however not always necessary, just recommended. Working areas are to be clean, dry and free from dust and debris, oils and moisture. Use a clean cotton rag and denatured alcohol, acetone, or lacquer thinner to thoroughly clean off your surfaces before utilizing the epoxy. Do not use paper towel or materials that leave fiber behind while cleaning. 

 

MIX IT UP

Mixing equal portions of part A and B (1:1) are absolutely crucial for a successful cure of your epoxy coating. Do not attempt to change the amounts for any reason. This will result in an incorrectly developed product- usually sticky or tacky. 

Polypropylene (Code 5PP) or polyethylene (Code 2HDPE) mixing containers are recommended as they did not melt much when larger batches of epoxy were mixed and left to cure within them.  We mix in a larger pre marked measuring tub and move to clear SOLO cups to mix pigment into and pour from.

Combine equal parts part A and part B into container- we recommend to put PART B into the container first. We recommend mixing with a helix paint mixer on low speeds, however if you do not have one, mix thoroughly with a clean stir stick or spatula- be sure to scrape the sides and bottom to incorporate. Mix until striations are no longer visible. Mix for maximum 3 minutes depending on volume. Over mixing with activate the  A + B reaction and lower the pot life. Pay attention to NOT mix in unnecessary air by whipping.  Use immediately. When the mixture begins to exhibit heat, this is evidence that the cure is beginning to take place and you need to use the mix promptly. We recommend not mixing more than a gallon at a time- mix only what you plan to use in the working time. 

WORKING TIME

Working time refers to the time you have to work with the mix before the cure is too hard. There are 2 major factors for this:

Volume of mix- the more mixed, the hotter it is, the faster it sets up- the less working time you have.

Room temperature: If the temperature is over the suggested amount, this may significantly decrease the working time.

We say that the average working time with TECHUCOAT premium epoxy is 30-40 minutes.

 

THE SEAL COAT

A seal coat is thin coat of epoxy used to coat a porous surface before the flood coat(s)- we recommend you do it on every surface regardless of porosity. This process helps to prevent air bubbles on any project. Make sure the surface is thoroughly cleaned before applying the seal coat. Tape the underside of cracks, holes or knots to prevent dripping to the underside of your project. Apply a thin coat with a foam roller, or a square trowel, and allow to self level. Allow the coat to cure solid (6 hours) and sand to rid of any imperfections or air bubbles (80-120 grit sandpaper). Wipe clean with isopropyl alcohol.  

 

ADDING COLOR

Recommended no more than 5% pigment per volume of mix or it could affect the chemical reactions for a proper cure.

 

STAINS AND PAINTS

Only use water based stains and paints under the epoxy coating. Oil based will cause significant issues to the cure of your coating. Be sure the stain/paint is dry before you apply epoxy. It is recommended to test the entire process on a scrap piece of wood before you do the final project.

 

POUR IT OUT, SPREAD IT AROUND

We use a plastic trowel to spread epoxy over the entire surface. Push the epoxy to the edges.  Do not apply thicker than 1/16”-1/8” per application. Maximum 2 coats. Never scrape clean the sides and bottom of the mix container to get out every last drop, this can result in an inconsistent cure. Just pour it out and set it aside. This is why it is important to consider 5% of your material as waste when calculating how much you need for a project.

 

WATCH FOR BUBBLES

Assess the epoxy after you’ve completely poured for air bubbles. You can use a heat gun, propane torch or hair dryer to remove bubbles. Swipe the heat source roughly 7 inches above the project in a back and forth motion. Check for bubbles over the next 20 minutes and add the heat to remove. It is possible to overheat and scorch the epoxy if you let the heat source sit too close or too long on an area- refrain from doing this for best results.

 

SECOND COATS, RECOATING

TECHUCOAT premium epoxy is not to be used for deep pours or casting. Its recommended pour thickness is 1/16” to 1/8”. This being said you can add an additional coat of that thickness after applying the first coat and allowing it to set up.

You can recoat without additional prep within 2-4 hours after initial pour, after 8 hours of cure time, additional preparation is required. Lightly sand the entire area with 120-220 grit sandpaper and wipe off debris with isopropyl alcohol then flood coat the project. This is also valid for recoating to freshen up old epoxy surfaces. Sanding creates an abrasive surface to promote sticking. 

If there are imperfections to your coating such as tackiness or soft spots, wipe the area with isopropyl alcohol or acetone to dissolve uncured epoxy. Spot fill the areas and let cure for 24 hours- sand and then flood coat the entirety of the surface.  

CURING TIME

Poured at 1/8” thick coat at a temp of 25°C (77°F) the coating should be tack free in about 4 hours. It should be able to sand after 8 hours, and it will be fully cured in 5-7 days.  Please consider that epoxy is temperature reactive. When you have a cooler environment and a thinner coat poured the product cures slower, and if you have a warmer environment and a thicker coat, the product will cure faster.  

FOOD CONTACT

If the product is mixed improperly or cured improperly, or if any pigments for example are added to the project, there is a chance that if food comes into contact with the product, the components could transfer through. Please read the detailed MSDS sheet.